The patterns below are presented as PDF documents and require Adobe Acrobat Reader™ to view. Click here to download Acrobat Reader for FREE. Crafted by the editors of Vogue Knitting magazine to be the ideal reference for every Century, mtn-i.info weaving/articles/mtn-i.info . Read Vogue® Knitting PDF Norah Gaughan Ebook by Editors of Vogue Knitting mtn-i.infohed by Sixth&Spring Books, ePUB/PDF.
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Vogue Knitting Book PDF (all 59 patterns & front matter) Vintage s Knitting Pattern Pdf - Women's CREWNECK FITTED SWEATER, Instant. Vogue Knitting beginner mtn-i.info - Download as PDF File .pdf) or read online. Vogue Knitting Fall - Free download as PDF File .pdf) or read online for free.
One at a time. What a waste of time! And we can no longer scroll through the magazine. Are you kidding me? Especially if we already own the advertised book. It used to be a pleasure to browse through the virtual magazines on my tablet, but this is torture. T-Shirt Lei. Elizabeth Cowl. Miss Savannah Bow. Techno Hat. Bayside Cardigan. Chunky Openwork Shrug.
Swing Coat. Quilt and Cable Blanket. Reversible Cable Moebius. Lace Shawl. Leaf Hat. Contemporary Belted Jacket. Boy's Fair Isle Vest. Winter Rose Sweater.
Animal House Pullover.
Fair Isle Pullover. Waves of Ribs Pullover. Ariosa Wrap Cardigan. Cabled Pullover. Kudzu Shawlette. Foxmoor Scarf. Whip Cowl. Simple Slouchy Hat. Diamond Cap. Lacy Chunky Throw. Sweater Vest. Mayfaire Camisole. Point Reyes Mitts. Lace Beret. Utsukushii Wrap. Hairband Bow. Napkin Rings. Cabled Scarf. Diagonal Striped Scarf. Crochet Ribble Scarf. Chunky Scarf. Lace Collar. Cable Panelled Sweater. Beaded Tealight Covers. Baseball Jacket.
Moss Stitch Rib Hat. Last Minute Cowl. Moss Stitch Tie. Long Snood. Deep V Top. Three Colour Scarf. Ribbed Bobble Hat. Reversible Bag. Paloma Cowl and Muff. Nell's Shrug. Purple and Pink Extra Long Cowl. Handtak Mittens. Alafoss Pullover. Snaky Cables Hat. Casima Scarf. Easy Peasy Bag. Monsoon Bag. Hawthorn Bag. Dane Shawl. Demalangeni Shawl.
Firefly Poncho. Florence Scarf. Frostlight Scarf. Afrato Cowl. Square Snowflake. Livia Child Cardigan. Shortie Cardigan. Leg Warmers. Slip-Stitch Cowl.
Welted Cowl. Lacy Top. Big Cowl. Cozy Cardigans.
Felted Posy Bag. Sock Monkey. Diagonal Lace Shawl.
Beret and Scarf. Shaker Rib Scarf and Hat. Snowmen Family.
Slipper Socks. Christmas Ornaments. Christmas Slippers. Knit Slippers. Yoga Socks. Stocking Hat and Watchman's Cap. Eyelet Cowl. Ribbed Headband. Herringbone Cowl. Alternatively, you can also knit 2 stitches together each k2tog eliminates one stitch once or twice within the cable as you bind off.
In your swatch, you can test the number of stitches to decrease to make a smooth top and bottom edge.
Remove the yarn from your fingers, wrap the tail several times around the center, and tie a knot as shown. Bring the yarn around your forefinger and middle finger. Wrap it in the opposite direction around your ring finger and little finger. Continue wrapping the yarn in a figure eight until you have enough. The bobbin should accommodate an adequate supply of yarn, be lightweight, and release the yarn easily as needed.
The type of bobbin you use will depend on your pattern or motif, the weight of the yarn, and your own preference. Use a bobbin if you are working with only one or two colors at a time, but for numerous small areas.
When you knit with more than one color, whether you prefer the stranded or intarsia method, bobbins will help to keep the yarns from tangling. You can download ready-made plastic bobbins in several sizes, or you can make your own out of cardboard. You can also wind your. Accessories There are many other tools that can make your knitting life easier. Some, such as stitch and needle gauges, are necessities; while others are knitter's choice. To use it, place your swatch or work in progress on a flat surface and place the stitch gauge on top, lining up the bottom of the window evenly with one row of stitches.
Count the number of stitches and rows revealed by the opening and divide by the number of inches marked on the side of the window to calculate the number of stitches in one inch 2. Needle gauges are available as either flat metal or plastic sheets with holes punched for corresponding needle sizes or metal or plastic rings of different sizes strung on a connector similar to a key chain.
To size the needle, simply slip it into one of the holes; the smallest hole that allows both the tip and shaft to slide easily back and forth is the size of your needle. There are also a number of apps that allow you to align the shaft of the needle with an image on the screen of your device to determine the needle size.
Some companies have combined a needle gauge with a stitch and row gauge in one tool. Rely on the millimeter mm sizing. Note about steel hooks: Steel crochet hooks are generally used with lace-weight yarns and crochet threads. They are sized differently than regular hooks: The higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.
The smallest steel hook is a 14 or. Knitters will find them useful for picking up dropped stitches and working decorative edgings. Steel hooks, which are the smallest, are sized using numbers from 14 to 5 in the United States, with the largest number being the smallest hook. European hooks are sized in millimeters. Solid-ring markers are slipped over the needle as you stitch; split-ring styles are a bit more versatile as they allow you slip markers into.
Take care when using decorative styles, as rough edges, wire joins, or beads may snag delicate yarns. If you have no markers handy you can use a simple loop of yarn in a contrasting color. Some styles resemble oversized safety pins; others are similar to a circular needle and have a cap on one end into which you insert the needle tip to create a closed circle.
Longer circular-style holders are best for large numbers of stitches. Styles and operating methods vary, but in most cases you click a lever or turn a dial to keep count as you complete each row or round. Some counters are designed to slip over the needle itself. Some resemble tiny cribbage boards with moveable pegs to keep track of shaping and stitch patterns at once, others include a push button to click each number forward, still others resemble stopwatches and can track multiple counters simultaneously.
For the more tech minded, there are also myriad apps that will keep careful count for you. The needle eye should be large enough to easily accommodate the yarn. Straight pins are used to hold pieces together as you sew. Those designed for knitting are longer than traditional sewing pins, with blunted points and colorful plastic heads to keep them from getting lost in stitches.
Newer to the market are bamboo marking pins, which hold heavier pieces together during seaming without danger of splitting or snagging yarns. T-pins, named for their T-shaped head, are good for holding heavier knits; you can also download specially designed finishing clips for the same purpose.
Blocking pins are long, flexible T-pins specifically designed to hold project pieces in place on a blocking or ironing board as you let them dry or steam them into shape. Coil-less safety pins are another helpful tool. Use them to hold small numbers of extra stitches or for a dropped stitch discovered too late to hook up. They can also be used to mark the right or wrong side of a piece or as stitch markers to indicate your place in a row.
Forked pins and blocking combs are other options that will pin and hold pieces evenly to blocking surfaces as the pieces dry. Many are marked with a grid pattern and a ruler showing inches and centimeters so you can shape. This cast on is similar to the tubular cast on version A on page 35, but uses a crochet chain to begin. With contrasting yarn, crochet a chain that has half the desired number of stitches, plus 1. Cut the yarn and draw it through the last loop.
Slip the purl stitches with yarn in front, as shown. Repeat row 1 three times more. Change to the needles for your project and continue in knit 1, purl 1 rib to the desired length. Remove the scrap-yarn chain. Holding the yarn in the left hand as for long-tail or double cast on, with the tail end around the thumb and the end coming from the ball around the index finger, bring the right-hand needle under both thumb strands.
Repeat from step 1 until the required number of stitches has been cast on. If the cast on is too tight, it will eventually snap and unravel. After casting on, remember to switch back to the correct needle size. You can also use smaller needles or cast. To keep it out of the way, bundle up the tail while working on your piece.
Continue in this way until the desired number of stitches is on the needle. Work through the same stitch in each I-cord row for a neat cast on. With scrap yarn, make an I-cord with the number of stitches to cast on for your project. Work a few rows of I-cord on these stitches. With double-pointed needles, knit 1 row in the main yarn for the project and divide the stitches evenly on double-pointed needles.
After several rounds have been worked in pattern, the scrap yarn can be removed. First, thread the tail of the main yarn in a yarn needle and weave the tail through the stitches of the first round of the main yarn.
To remove the scrap yarn, carefully snip 1 stitch in the last round of the scrap yarn and unpick it with a yarn needle. Tighten the opening in the first round of the piece by gently pulling the woven-in tail.
Place a temporary slip knot on the bottom pink needle. Wrap the yarn around both needles the number of times that is equal to half the number of stitches to cast on in your round. Pull the bottom pink needle so that the stitches are on the cable. Knit the loops on the top silver needle with the other end of the same circular needle.
Turn and slide the stitches to the pink needle, and pull the silver needle so the stitches are on the cable of that needle. Knit the stitches on the light pink needle with the other end of the pink circular needle.
This cast on is worked on two circular needles and creates a tube with a closed lower edge. It is good for socks, pouches, or projects worked on two circular needles. Working on two different-color needles helps to keep track of the rounds.
In some garments, however, placing cables horizontally adds interest to the design. A hat brim, sleeve cuff, or mitten cuff can feature a cable placed horizontally. Cables can be used as horizontal edgings on sweaters or shawls. To use cables in this way, knit a cable panel as a separate piece. You can cast on using a conventional method, such as the long-tail cast on, or start with a provisional cast on that you will graft to the live stitches at the end of the piece to form a tube.
If you are seaming the sides of. If you are knitting your item in the round, as for a hat or mittens, then use a provisional cast-on so that the grafted seam will not be visible. It is less conspicuous to cast on in the middle of the cable, rather than at the point where the cable crosses, for a smooth seam or graft.
Once the cable is knit, you can pick up stitches on either side and then work vertically. If the cable is to be positioned in the middle of your piece, as for the waistline of a sweater, you will be picking up stitches on both sides of the cable panel. For example, if the cable is on a background of reverse stockinette, a garter-stitch edge on the sides of the cable panel will provide a foundation for the picked-up stitches or a smooth bottom edge. It is useful to swatch and block your cable panel to determine how many stitches to pick up.
You can test this by picking up stitches on your blocked cable swatch. Because the pieces are oriented differently, they will stretch differently. You may find that. Cable with picked up stitches changing needle sizes for either the cable or the work above or below the cable insertion piece will give you a smoother fabric.
Some sweaters that are knit side to side also may feature horizontal cables. Bobbins When you knit with more than one color, whether you prefer the stranded or intarsia method, bobbins will help to keep the yarns from tangling.
On the following row, work the 3 double stitches as single stitches. Purl the first 2 stitches with the new yarn. Work these stitches with the yarn folded double, making sure you have just enough to work 3 stitches. Knit the next 3 stitches with the doubled yarn. Let the short end of the new yarn hang and continue knitting with 1 strand.
Work the doubled stitches as single stitches. Double knitting is a method of knitting in which you create a fabric with two public sides using two balls of yarn knit on one set of needles. Double-knit fabrics can be knit flat on straight needles or in the round on circular needles or double-pointed needles.
The technique is excellent for making very warm blankets, hats, or cowls. When both sides of the work are knit in stockinette, the double thickness of the fabric prevents it from curling. When planning. Double knitting is often used with two different color yarns, and the resulting fabric is reversible. Because there is no right or wrong side in double knitting, the side you are working on is described as the facing side and the side away from you is the opposite side.
In each row or round, you alternate knitting stitches from each ball of yarn. Double-knitting charts show only the facing side of the fabric. For each square, you knit two stitches—one for the facing side and one for the opposite side. Get started by casting on using one of the methods shown. You need to cast on twice as many stitches as you would for a single fabric.
To knit circularly, use any standard method for joining in the round. Move both strands to back of work between the needles. With both strands held to back, insert needle knitwise in next stitch, wrap yarn for facing side to knit stitch. Holding both yarns to front, insert needle purlwise in next stitch, wrap with opposite color and purl. Holding color for facing side to front and color for opposite side to back, insert needle purlwise in next stitch, wrap with facing color and purl.
Holding color for facing side to front and color for opposite side to back, insert needle knitwise in next stitch, wrap with opposite color and knit. Take care not to twist the stitches while returning them to the LH needle. Insert LH needle from front to back under the strand between the last opposite stitch worked and the next opposite stitch and knit or purl through the back loop with the color indicated in the instructions.
Insert LH needle from front to back under the strand between the last facing stitch worked and the next facing stitch and knit or purl through the back loop with the color indicated in the instructions. To begin, make a large swatch using the yarn and main stitch pattern of your choice.
Block the swatch and determine the gauge over stitches and rows. This information is needed to plan placement of patterns and shaping. You might want the center of a pattern to fall at the center of the shawl. If the pattern has an odd number of stitches, cast on an.
Alternatively, stitch patterns can be arranged symmetrically. If the shawl is shaped with increases, add patterns when there are enough stitches to incorporate them. Patterns can be arranged symmetrically within the sections of the shawl defined by the increases or decreases. The top edge of the shawl can be worked along with the main piece when working from the neck to the point, or added later by picking up stitches, or worked separately and sewn on.
If the edge is worked at the same time as the main section, cast on enough. If stitches are picked up for edges and borders when the main shawl is complete, be sure to pick up and knit the appropriate number of stitches for the stitch multiple in the pattern. If an edging is knit on perpendicular to the shawl, you must work a pattern that fits the number of rows in the body of the shawl.
If the border is worked around the entire edge of the shawl, work more than once into each corner stitch. Use your swatch to determine if joining to the corner stitch 2 or 3 times is best. Square and Rectangular Shawls Square and rectangular shawls can be constructed very simply by casting on the desired number of stitches and knitting in one direction until the shawl is large enough or you have run out of yarn.
This procedure also is used for making basic scarves, and a simple shawl need not be more complicated to be warm and cozy. For square or rectangular shawls with more complex stitch motifs or patterning, other construction methods are used.
For example, for stitch motifs with a particular direction, it is possible to construct the shawl in two parts, either by knitting from the edges to the center or from the center to the edges. The center can be joined or grafted. Some square shawls are constructed as if they were two triangles joined in the center.
Others use a center-out cast on and are constructed like the medallions on page A similar method can be used to construct a rectangular shawl circularly,. Cast on 1—5 stitches. Increase 1 stitch on each side on every right-side row and work even on wrong-side rows. When the diameter of the square is the width desired, decrease 1 stitch each side on every other row. The increases and decreases can be positioned a few stitches from the edge of the square to create a border.
Place a marker for the the center.